Travellers are drawn to Kerala’s’s palm-tree laden beaches of white sand, colourful religious festivals and – most significantly – progressive attitude to health and education; factors which contribute to the state’s enviable reputation elsewhere in India. Although it is a tourist friendly destination, be prepared for a drastic culture shock, nonetheless.
Those in search of a resort which succeeds in maintaining its unique Indian charm will be sure to delight in Kovalam: Situated on the south coast and characterized by a series of sandy bays and authentic fishing villages, the region is one of the Government’s prime tourist centres. Having long been a haven for Western backpackers, Kovalam has more recently become popular with European travellers on package tours, seduced by the safety of a generous selection of Western-style hotels. But in a broader economic sense, Kovalam is the least touristy tourist location one is ever likely to encounter.
Travellers may well be struck by the poverty of the locals and their frugal living arrangements; communities synonymous with the impoverished televised images of the Third World one is accustomed to seeing are rife in the region. Small, bedraggled huts line the roads, their scant contents visible to all, and locals club together on the roadside, watching – simply watching life go by. Goats and cows roam nonchalantly amongst the people and modest stalls displaying jars of fruit, tobacco and spices stand between the huts. Tourists are automatically assigned regal status, those with white skin being viewed by locals as symbols of wealth and prized possessions. Indeed, vivacious children are quick to approach travellers in the region, often beseeching them for school pens (‘Hello, please, school pen! Hello school pen!’) - an act Kerala’s education authorities clearly encourage as an alternative to begging for money.
The hub of tourist activity resides to the south of the resort, just off the popular Lighthouse beach. Boasting a long line of European style cafés, bars, clothes and crafts, alongside a host of doggedly persistent vendors, the Lighthouse beach is a tourist hive with a definite buzz. But true Indian spirit still resides here, typified by the fruit ladies. Wilfully strolling back and forth the beach all day in the boiling hot sun, bowls of fruit resting upon their heads, relentlessly chanting ‘mango, papaya, banana, coconut’, one cannot help but be captivated by their exoticism, strength and soul. Exuding a dark and beguiling sensuality, they embody Eastern mystique.
Another enticing cultural ritual to be found here is the special dance form of Kerala, Kathakali, often performed at surrounding hotels and bars. Deriving over a thousand years ago from a high-caste tribe, it is an enchanting spectacle in which good and evil forces, dressed in elaborate makeup and costumes, play out to the beat of drums.
Trivandrum, the capital, offers a glimpse of the vibrant hubbub of city life. Travellers can expect to be bombarded with images of raw humanity; old women pleading with passers-by to buy their fruit - decrepit and forlorn yet still harbouring amazing spirit, bony old men collapsed in heat-induced stupors under doorways, vibrant girls in saris, lusty boys indulging in animated chat and men, smoking, spitting, chewing, hammering and rickshawing. A cacophony of sound permeates the streets, the relentless hooting of motorbikes, taxis, rickshaws and buses, seemingly celebrating existence from moment to moment. The people here are friendly and accepting of tourists, often pleased to guide them to destinations of their choice. Indeed, many do not require payment for their services (although it is always greatly appreciated) and appear content in the reception of gratitude from lost but enthusiastic strangers.
The Padmanabhasvami Temple, situated near the old fort to the south of the city, is a vision of breathtakingly intricate architecture, rebuilt in 1733 by a Hindu prince. It is normally open only to Hindus but permission can sometimes be obtained if visitors are suitably dressed. The north of the city is the artistic and cultural hub, boasting museums, art galleries and the zoo which Yann Martel refers to in his best selling novel The Life of Pi.
Dining in Trivandrum is unbelievably cheap. As regards to snacking, cafés serve coffee at an average price of 6 rupees (10 pence) a cup, and 10 rupees will buy a beautifully tasty, freshly squeezed fruit juice. A word of warning, though: Many Indians have insanely sweet teeth, adding additional sugar to already sweet concoctions – travellers with an aversion to sugar would be wise to make this clear. As for main meals, the obvious option would be one of Kerala’s world renowned curries, packed with a wealth of subtle flavours and spices, many dishes containing the state’s trademark coconut. They are also mind bogglingly cheap, and can be purchased for as little as 100 rupees.
For an unforgettable experience, be sure to visit Kollam, a vibrant market town, from which a boat trip can be taken along the south end of Kerala’s backwaters. Sailing along the canal on a beautifully sculpted boat made of hard wood, palm trees swaying lazily back and forth and the sun beaming down, travellers will be hard pushed to match such perfect tranquillity. For a chance to observe the local fishermen in action, it is advisable to stop off at one of the remoter beaches on the edge of the canal. Here, travellers may catch a glimpse of the authentic Keralan fishing ritual – a memorable spectacle involving reams of locals tugging at huge ropes while their families huddle close by.
Offering a multitude of unique experiences, many of which are accompanied by meetings with enthusiastic locals, travellers’ memories of Kerala will no doubt remain tinged with the magic of opportunity. The spirit of the land and its people will leave their mark on all who witness them.
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